Surf's up

About Surf's up

As soon as there was the first wave, there was the first surfer. All you needed was a piece of driftwood, or a block of ice -- and you were off, you were riding. They were hooked, man, they were hooked – they couldn’t stop. And they just passed it on and passed it on, handed that surf gene down all the way through the days. Up ‘til recent times, you had your old dudes, your “hang six” cats, these old guys that used to lay down with huge, humongous boards. These guys were the pioneers. But nobody saw what surfing could really be until Big Z did it.

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